How would you classify the best vintage perfumes? Gustavo Romero, perfumer and founder of The Fragrance Alliance, believes that “classics tend to arrive at the right cultural moment.” Romero quotes Marilyn Monroe, who claimed to wear exclusively Chanel No. 5 to bed. “However, what cements a scent’s legacy is emotional resonance,” Romero adds. “The most vintage perfumes are not only gorgeous, but also evocative. They feel like the perfect complement to who you are, not just what you wear,” he explains.
While testing historic scents, I asked InStyle editors to evaluate these points, noting why their selections felt as remarkable now as they did at first smell. We also developed some concrete rules for the best fragrances for women, such as selecting scents that are more than ten years old and come from well-known, luxury, or respectable labels. Despite their novelty, a few newer perfumes made the list. According to Romero, iconic scents “tap into something deeper than trends, they shape memory.” Even though their aroma has faded, the following vintage perfumes continue to evoke enchanting locales, moments in time, and states of mind.
Backstory: Despite its recent 2019 release, Louis Vuitton Coeur Battant has the makings of a timeless fragrance. Third-generation master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, born in the world’s perfume capital, Grasse, France, understands the art of crafting everlasting fragrances.
Why We Love It: Sally Holmes, InStyle Editor-in-Chief, chose wisely her favourite vintage perfume. A classic yet memorable smell. Sparkling pear is the first to appear, followed by Egyptian jasmine and ylang-ylang, which provide a faint rhythmic background. It’s a gentle symphony with a melody you’ll want to whistle and wear all day.
Backstory: Chanel debuted Coco Mademoiselle in 2001, targeting younger consumers. Its lighter, warmer, flowery aroma contrasts with Chanel No.5’s soapy, powdery overtones. The brand followed up with memorable advertisements starring Kate Moss, Keira Knightley, and Nicole Kidman. Though some may now consider Coco Mademoiselle antique, this iconic perfume was the “It” girl in the early 2000s and remains so today, if you ask us. Whitney Peak is the first Black fragrance ambassador for Chanel’s renowned scent.
Why We Love It: While all Chanel fragrances are impressive and unforgettable, InStyle Beauty Director Lauren Valenti, who recently tested Chanel’s latest fragrance, believes Mademoiselle is the most strongly felt. “It’s the perfect spring fragrance—starting fresh and citrussy, then blooming into a floral heart of jasmine and rose before deepening into a cosy, spicy finish with vanilla, patchouli, and tonka bean,” she tells me.
Backstory: Master perfumer Oliver Pescheux, the nose behind many popular women’s perfumes such as Dior, Armani, and Valentino, created what would become a trademark aroma for many. Diptyque named the unisex perfume after the Parisian bar Ophéon, where three of the premium brand’s founders convened in an informal salon to create today’s most recognisable smells.
Why We Love It: I’ve always been drawn to muskier scents, which are heady but not usually suited for everyday use. Diptyque Orphéon’s gentler notes of juniper and jasmine balance out its richness, making it completely gender-neutral. However, when I’m looking to dazzle, two extra spritzes bring out its smokier qualities, garnering attention from anyone in a candlelight atmosphere.
Irene Richardson, associate editor, says: “Classic perfumes don’t have to be traditional or boring. Diptyque Orphéon is an excellent example of this feeling. According to the brand, it is intended to feel cosy, similar to cuddling into a corner booth at a jazz club. As a frequent visitor to several jazz clubs throughout New York City, I totally agree. It’s warm at first, luring you inside with cedar and tonka, but it gradually transforms into something slightly sweet and floral as it dries on my skin.”
